Saturday, July 21, 2012

Nepal (day 8 - 9) -- Manakamana

Early in the morning of July 6 we got up. The destination of the day was Manakamana, a village on top of a hill with a famous temple. The bus was to leave at 7 a.m., so we had every reason to get up early.
This was my first trip to the western part of Nepal, so I was to watch scenery, which I had never seen before. The trip took about four hours, which seems to be a lot for a distance of about 100 km. However, it takes almost one hour to get out of overcrowded Kathmandu. Then starts the highway. The term highway was to be taken literally; it is a way that runs high. The street is narrow, on one side the mountain on the other the abyss.So highway is not used in the American way; this highway is more like a country road, that can with some luck give room for two vehicles.
However, it also gives spectacular views, as it runs along with Trisuli River.
Breath-taking view on river Trisuli from the bus



At around 11 am we arrived at our destiny. Before people had to walk up the hill and that took them maybe 3 to 4 hours, now there is a cable car. Nepal's only cable car. The height difference is more than 1000 m; the distance is about 3 km.
Here I got my first of many unpleasant encounters. I am here as a tourist, which means a cow that you can milk. And now, these cows are not at all holy. So I had to pay around 3 times the amount an ordinary ticket will cost. 15 $ is never the equivalent of 450 NPR.
However, the trip up the hill was simply stunning. Slowly the busy road disappears in the air gliding all the way up - a marvellous experience, like being in the Alps without the need to ski.
On the hilltop we needed to find a guest house. The owner of Hotel Sunrise is probably the most unfriendly owner of a hotel on the spot, may he is even the most unfriendly hotel owner of all Nepal. In spite of his sleazy manner we installed ourselves there, but since we didn't want to eat at his place, we were simply kicked out: Leave my hotel immediately! We were happy to oblige.
Another hotel was more friendly and also cheaper - Mountain Top it was called. Wanted to remember it, but now I am no longer sure, as I only fixed the sleazy guy in my memory. From that hotel there is a direct view to the temple.
they say that goddess Manakamana can grant you every wish. So I was prepared for a longer talk with the goddess, but also here they have the sign: Only for Hindus. They think I may have had a cow for breakfast, but they cannot know if I am a vegetarian -- they simply judge me by the face. Hindu Priests are then like racists and I will never respect this attitude. Hinduism is a f***ing exclusive religion. How can such a claim to be true? Buddhism is inclusive -- that's why I like that religion better.
From the outside I had a talk with Shiva. I think Shiva may have a broader mind than his miserable priests.
May the Force be with You!

In the evening it started to rain, so further walks around were a bit out of the question.
The next morning, Saturday, the worshipping of the goddess took place. This was an elaborate process, with burnings and a priest reciting shanti. Yes, peace on you too, man. I had to watch from outside - however some drops of peace were also spared on me by that priest of the apartheid Hindu religion. I don't know, if the people know what they are doing and why the are performing these rites. There was nobody to explain the hidden or maybe even symbolic meaning in the doings. However, it looked quite colourful, like the Immolation Scene in the Twilight of the Gods.
Tanka is preparing a fondue?
Of course we took also tons of pictures; they might appear later on Flickr or somewhere else. Before going down with the cable car, we saw what kind of goods they also transport - living goats, who were terrified, of course, and dragged out the cabin in a rather rude manner. Everywhere in Manakamana you can buy offerings for the goddess. For the reasons mentioned above, the goddess didn't get my offerings though.
Down we found a bus, as we were continuing to Pokhara.
We were there until Tuesday...

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