Saturday, July 21, 2012

Nepal (day 8 - 9) -- Manakamana

Early in the morning of July 6 we got up. The destination of the day was Manakamana, a village on top of a hill with a famous temple. The bus was to leave at 7 a.m., so we had every reason to get up early.
This was my first trip to the western part of Nepal, so I was to watch scenery, which I had never seen before. The trip took about four hours, which seems to be a lot for a distance of about 100 km. However, it takes almost one hour to get out of overcrowded Kathmandu. Then starts the highway. The term highway was to be taken literally; it is a way that runs high. The street is narrow, on one side the mountain on the other the abyss.So highway is not used in the American way; this highway is more like a country road, that can with some luck give room for two vehicles.
However, it also gives spectacular views, as it runs along with Trisuli River.
Breath-taking view on river Trisuli from the bus



At around 11 am we arrived at our destiny. Before people had to walk up the hill and that took them maybe 3 to 4 hours, now there is a cable car. Nepal's only cable car. The height difference is more than 1000 m; the distance is about 3 km.
Here I got my first of many unpleasant encounters. I am here as a tourist, which means a cow that you can milk. And now, these cows are not at all holy. So I had to pay around 3 times the amount an ordinary ticket will cost. 15 $ is never the equivalent of 450 NPR.
However, the trip up the hill was simply stunning. Slowly the busy road disappears in the air gliding all the way up - a marvellous experience, like being in the Alps without the need to ski.
On the hilltop we needed to find a guest house. The owner of Hotel Sunrise is probably the most unfriendly owner of a hotel on the spot, may he is even the most unfriendly hotel owner of all Nepal. In spite of his sleazy manner we installed ourselves there, but since we didn't want to eat at his place, we were simply kicked out: Leave my hotel immediately! We were happy to oblige.
Another hotel was more friendly and also cheaper - Mountain Top it was called. Wanted to remember it, but now I am no longer sure, as I only fixed the sleazy guy in my memory. From that hotel there is a direct view to the temple.
they say that goddess Manakamana can grant you every wish. So I was prepared for a longer talk with the goddess, but also here they have the sign: Only for Hindus. They think I may have had a cow for breakfast, but they cannot know if I am a vegetarian -- they simply judge me by the face. Hindu Priests are then like racists and I will never respect this attitude. Hinduism is a f***ing exclusive religion. How can such a claim to be true? Buddhism is inclusive -- that's why I like that religion better.
From the outside I had a talk with Shiva. I think Shiva may have a broader mind than his miserable priests.
May the Force be with You!

In the evening it started to rain, so further walks around were a bit out of the question.
The next morning, Saturday, the worshipping of the goddess took place. This was an elaborate process, with burnings and a priest reciting shanti. Yes, peace on you too, man. I had to watch from outside - however some drops of peace were also spared on me by that priest of the apartheid Hindu religion. I don't know, if the people know what they are doing and why the are performing these rites. There was nobody to explain the hidden or maybe even symbolic meaning in the doings. However, it looked quite colourful, like the Immolation Scene in the Twilight of the Gods.
Tanka is preparing a fondue?
Of course we took also tons of pictures; they might appear later on Flickr or somewhere else. Before going down with the cable car, we saw what kind of goods they also transport - living goats, who were terrified, of course, and dragged out the cabin in a rather rude manner. Everywhere in Manakamana you can buy offerings for the goddess. For the reasons mentioned above, the goddess didn't get my offerings though.
Down we found a bus, as we were continuing to Pokhara.
We were there until Tuesday...

Sunday, July 15, 2012

Nepal (day 4-7)

Not every day is filled with activity; sometimes relaxing is the most important part of the day, or maybe some gathering
On Monday Chabbi had his wedding anniversary. We spent the day at his house, talking. relaxing and eating.Eating all the time. This time my stomach protested a bit against the local food. Also before I needed some time to get used to the hotness (of the food, the hotness weatherwise is never a problem). - Therefore i had to be very careful and not to provoke my bowel system morer than necessary. Anyway, thinking of yesterday's ayurveda alert with regard to my BMI, I have to relaise that I don't get a chance to become only 85% full; the ratio is rather 115%. When I look at the photos I like to label them: before the diet began.
Before the Big Loser circumference reduction event

The womena had arranged an outdoor, well at least on balcony dancing arrangement, but that was stopped decisevely by a big thunderstorm. We went home in a deluvial rain. - But when it is warm, it doesn't matter so much - then the rain is like taking a shower.

This is the time of marriages, as it seems. Tanka's sister has a friend who was going to have a marriage party for their friends in Kathmandu. I was alo welcome. It is strange that in these circumstances I am the exotic part. However, this again makes me like living here, because I come to places and events where nobody lese with my background comes.
On Wednesday at last I met my Facebook friend Diwash. Last year we couldn't meet, but this time we managed at last. It's always a bit strange to meet somebody whom you else have known from the virtual world only. But it was a pleasant encounter. There should be a chance to meet more often in the remaining time. Diwash also made contact to my Nepali teacher - busy Mausam. I am going to meet him in person later. The pictures with Diwash are on my Facebook account.

This is the time of the monssom. Sometimes it is raining, sometimes it is not. This condition also blocks activities, as I don't feel very much inclined to walk through muddy streets in rain.

From  Friday we will be out of Kathmandu -- to Manakamana and Pokhara.

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Nepal (day 3) - Sanga and Panauti

Today is already July 12 and today I write about what we did more than a week ago. That was on - let me check the calendar, yup on July 1. It seems that relaxing occupies me totally, but now I want to maintain these recollections - also to avoid that I forgot what I experienced.
So on a beautiful sunny Sunday we started  the trip. First stop was Sanga, the place with the highest statue of Shiva in the world.


The first part of the trip is heading for Bhaktapur. From Chabalhil the road passes by Pashupati, along the airport and then to the direction of Bhakatapur. I think I remembered some of the strange "narrow" houses on that road. From Bhaktapur the road becomes somewhat steep, we enter the mountain area. I love mountains, I don't need to climb them, but I adore the majestic site. High above we see look down and see the traffic in matchbox size. That is always a nice view.



The statue of Shiva is placed so that Shiva greets already from a long distance. Kailashnath Mahadev is situated near the village Sanga. Attached to the monument is an ayurvedic center. They offer massage, different treatments and medidation. They also promise a weight loss of 4-6 kg per week. How many weeks would I have to stay there until my BMI was in the green area?? - As they say: once is not enough.
From Sanga we continued to Panauti; the street was OK and right and left appeared small villages, cottages of farmers and only very few Roadside Restaurants.
Panauti is a small city in the Panauti district. We had a look at the temples near the river, witnesses of a great past. I really like the wood-carving architecture. It combines big design with the love for details. Need to read more about all those things.


On the way back we ate overpriced momo at a restaurant close to the airport.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Nepal (day 1 and 2)

This time the way to Nepal was especially long-winded. Because of 15 hours of waiting in Qatar, day 1 and day 2 were passed and wasted in the transit lounge of Dohsa Airport.
I'm still fascinated by travelling; in the morning we border a plane and several hours later we are in a desert state. The medieval crusaders would have needed years to make the same travel and even in the time of adventure fiction à la Karl May needed several weeks, if not months to make the same journey. And now already after several hours we are in a different world.
The time there was lost and airports are not descriptive of the manners in a country. It was stunning to see how many people follow the commandments of religious clothing. Seems there are not so many land-winnings in that fashion noiwadays (Burqa-Fashion, the magazine for the modern woman...)
Another thing I just didn't understand is why the access to the mosque was through the WC. Is that for reasons of holiness?? Or for cleanliness?? Anyway, it seemed to me strange to give access to a evidently holy place, but then all cultures have their own manners.
Now is Sunday and we will visit a Shiva statue today.






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